Ticking Fords—Problems with Ford’s 3.0 Duratec Engine

Some Ford 3.0 Duratec engines are exhibiting a ticking noise coming from the left cylinder bank after engine warmup. Ford has isolated the problem to 2005-07 vehicles with cam driven water pumps. The ticking is caused by an improperly torqued exhaust camshaft. The fix involves removing the valve cover and retightening the exhaust cam bolts while pre-loading the #4 cam cap.

Here’s the procedure. Run the engine up to operating temperature and verify that the ticking sound is coming from the area around the #6 cylinder. (Use an automotive stethoscope for this) Remove the valve cover and rotate the engine by hand until both cam lobes for the #6 cylinder are pointing straight up. Next, remove all the exhaust cam caps and reinstall them with the bolts finger tight. Torque all the cam caps except #4 in the proper sequence to 72 inch/lbs.

Using two flat blade screwdrivers, wedge the flat tips under the inboard side of the cam cap and apply pressure to force the cap towards the exhaust side of the cylinder head. Holding the cap in this position with the screwdrivers (you may need a second set of hands for this part), torque the inboard cap bolt to 72 inch/lbs. Then tighten the outboard bolt on the cap to the same torque. Reinstall the valve cover.

Vehicles affected by this problem are: 2005-07 Ford Five Hundred, Freestyles, and Mercury Montegos. Also included are: 2006 Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan and Lincoln Zephyrs. Add 2006-07 Ford Escapes and Mercury Mariners to the list as well.

©, Rick Muscoplat

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Ford Reverse & Forward Sensing System Failures—The Fix

Certain Ford vehicles were equipped with proximity sensors that detect objects within 6’ of the vehicle and within 18” on either side of the bumper. When those conditions occur, the system sets off an audible warning.

If you’re having a problem with the system accidentally setting off the audible alarm, Ford wants you to check for a blocked or contaminated sensor surface. Ford informs us that there is a gap between the sensor membrane and the plastic housing and that gap must remain clear. Any contamination in this space can result in a continuous or intermittent tone. Ford recommends cleaning with a high pressure spray.

In addition to a sensor blocked with debris, Ford also notes that very wet weather conditions, such as mist, frost, or snow may result in erroneous warnings. Also, external ultrasonic noise may set off the system and this is considered normal.

If you have any body work done on vehicles with these systems, make sure you or the body shop properly masks off the sensors to prevent contamination.

©, 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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Replace a Windshield Washer Pump

These days, most windshield washer pumps are mounted to the bottom of the washer fluid reservoir. Where’s that, you ask? Well, you know that spout you pour the fluid into—the one that disappears into nowhere? Well, the reservoir is actually located inside the front fender between the bumper and the front wheel.

To replace the pump, you will have to jack up the vehicle, remove the front wheel and then remove the inner fender liner. The vehicle in these photos is a Plymouth Grand Voyager. Since it’s a van, it has two pumps—one for the windshield and one for the rear hatch wiper. Like most other vehicles made today, these pumps are insert into a rubber grommet in the reservoir. If you own a Dodge Caravan/Voyager/Town & Country van, forget about finding a replacement pump in the aftermarket. This is a dealer-only item. It runs about $60. The worst part about it, is that you have to leave the pump in place, even if you replace it with a universal style pump. See how rusty these are? If you leave the old one in place and bypass it with a universal pump, just think how much fun you’ll have doing this job all over again when the old pump rusts completely through and you have to do this all over again.

That’s why I decided against a universal pump. This isn’t a hard job. It’s just a pain.

What makes them go bad? Running them without fluid. So stop doing that.

©, Rick Muscoplat

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Diagnose and Replace a TPS

A throttle position sensor is just like a rotating volume control on your radio or TV. Instead of turning the knob by hand to “pump up the gas,” it connects to the throttle plate shaft or to the throttle cable. Its job is to tell the powertrain control module (PCM) where your foot is on the pedal. In newer cars, the TPS is located right on the gas pedal. The manufacturers eliminated the cable to the throttle body and rely instead on stepper motors to open and close the throttle plate.

If you’ve ever experienced static with the volume control on your radio or TV, then you’ll know why your PCM gets so annoyed when it cannot get a “clean” signal from the TPS. If it hears too much static or dropouts on the line, it simply gives up and sets a trouble code. Then it’s your job to start troubleshooting. Here’s how to do it.

The PCM sends a constant 5 volt reference signal to the variable resistor inside the TPS case. To detect whether the reference signal arrived safely, it also monitors the return ground back at the computer. So all the tests you perform must be done with the connector still connected to the TPS and the key turned to the RUN position. How do you tap into the wires? You can either backprobe (stick the lead into the back of the connector) or stick a pin through the wires and seal the holes afterwards with nail polish.

If the PCM doesn’t see a return signal, it sets a trouble code for a bad reference signal. If that trouble code pops up, connect one lead of your digital voltmeter to the 5V reference in wire and the other to a good ground. The reading must be 5 volts. If it isn’t, you’ve either got a break in the wire between the PCM and the TPS, or you have a bad PCM. Find the 5v reference wire in the PCM connector and check for it there. If you get 5 volts there, that confirms a broken wire.

To check for reference return ground, disconnect the TPS connector and place one lead of your meter on the 5 volt reference signal IN pin and the other on the reference ground. It must read 5 volts. If it doesn’t, follow the same procedure at the PCM that you used to check for reference voltage.

Reconnect the connector to the TPS and then test the TPS signal. This one can be a bit tricky. Most pros use a lab scope for this check because it will show a gradual sweeping curve as you open the throttle. If there are any dead spots (or static) in the TPS signal, it shows up dramatically on the scope. A digital voltmeter, on the other hand, averages the voltage readings as you open the throttle. So a quick dropout it harder to detect. That’s why it’s important to perform the TPS voltage test slowly if you’re using a digital meter.

Some TPS sensors have a 4^th wire. Manufacturers use the 4^th wire to tell the computer when the TPS is at “0.” When the wiper returns to the “off” stop, it opens a switch, cutting off TPS voltage. If your TPS only has 3 wires and it tests as bad, you may have to follow a special alignment procedure when installing the new sensor. The alignment/adjustment procedure is designed to make sure the “off” voltage falls within a certain acceptable range for the PCM. If you don’t adjust it properly, the PCM may think that the throttle is partially open, when it is really closed.

What causes a TPS to fail? Simple. Plain old wear. If you do mostly city driving, you’ll discover that the “static” or “dropouts” occur when you are trying to accelerate from around 30mph. That’s the point where the wiper arm is constantly moving back and forth as you try to maintain speed in city traffic.

Want more information about this repair? Click on EAUTOREPAIR. This is the consumer version of the professional mechanic's online shop manual Mitchell On Demand. It contains exactly the same information the professional mechanics get. You can print out every service procedure, specification, component locations, wiring and vacuum diagram, TSB, and recall related to your vehicle.

©, Rick Muscoplat

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Prestone’s Birthday Bash

I was always fascinated with my father's stories about his first car. My favorite one was how he would drive the car to school in winter and empty out the radiator to keep it from freezing. Anti-freeze was expensive back then and he had sunk all of his hard earned money into the car. After school he'd have to carry a bucket back into the building and fill the radiator before he dared start up the engine. It's amazing that today anti-freeze is only $6/gallon.

Speaking of anti-freeze, Prestone is celebrating it’s 80^th year in business and is inviting you to party with them. Their celebration is called “80 Years, 80 Days of Prizes.” It’s a sweepstakes and it started on September 1 and runs through November 19, 2007. The promotion gives consumers the chance to win daily prizes including Prestone branded retro hats and T-shirts. The sweepstakes also offers a grand prize including two tickets to an NHRA event and $1,500 in spending cash. In addition, two First Prize recipients will win admission to a driving school in their area.

Go to www.prestone.com for more details about the sweepstakes. To enter the sweepstakes, simply have to click on the sweepstakes link on the Prestone home page. Then you will be forwarded to a separate site to view more information about the “80 Years, 80 Days of Prizes” sweepstakes, learn about the brand’s history and link to My Garage, a website that gives you the ability to create a secure, personalized profile to manage maintenance information for their vehicles. After clicking on the sweepstakes link, complete an entry form. Details and effective rules of the “80 Years, 80 Days of Prizes” sweepstakes can be found at https://sslprotected.com/prestone80/Rules.aspx.

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Tech Tip—Hard starting, stall, poor gas mileage

There are many things that can cause hard starting and stalling, but the key to solving this particular puzzle is the clue about poor gas mileage. One inexpensive sensor can be the cause of all these problems—the engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT).

When you turn the key, the computer takes a quick look at the ambient air temperature and the ECT. By comparing the two temperature readings the computer knows whether the engine is cold or at operating temperature, and whether it’s hot or cold outside. Based on those two readings, it decides what the air/fuel mixture should be.

A cold engine needs a rich mixture to start and stay running. As the engine warms, the sensor reports the warmer reading to the computer and it leans out the mixture. However, if the ECT isn’t working properly, the computer will continue to pour fuel into the engine. That’s where you get poor gas mileage.

The ECT is a thermistor that changes resistance based on temperature. To test it, you’ll need an ohm meter and a reference chart. Car makers usually install two coolant temperature sensors—one for the instrument panel gauge and one for the engine computer. Make sure you test the right one. ECT sensors usually cost less than $25 and are easy to install. If you’ve neglected changing the coolant in your vehicle, your ECT could be corroded or coated with insulating deposits.

©, 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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URGENT--Fuse Recall

General Motors has reported several wiring harness fires that were the direct result of defective automotive fuses sold by Harbor Freight. In each case, the Harbor Freight fuse did not “blow” at it’s stated amperage. The overload caused a wire harness fire and substantial damage to the vehicle.

The fuses have no identifying markings on them to signify that they are the Harbor Freight brand. These are the blade type fuses and are sold in a plastic storage case under the Storehouse label. On September 6, 2007 Harbor Freight issued a recall. If you own any of these fuses and have used them in your vehicle, remove them immediately and return all the fuses to Harbor Freight. The fuses in question were manufactured in China for Harbor Freight.

©, 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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Honda CRV Moan from Rear Differential

Honda has issued a TSB #07-024 for 2002-04 Honda CRVs with 4 wheel drive. The moaning usually occurs when making sharp right or left turns at low speeds. The cause of the moaning sound is a contamination of the differential oil. The repair involves removing all the old oil and burnishing the clutch plates. Then, refill with a new oil P/N 08200-9002, H/C 6512644

This is covered by the Honda warranty if your vehicle is in warranty. However, Honda may also be providing goodwill service on this. Talk to the service advisor and let them know that you’re aware that Honda is providing a goodwill adjustment on this service.

©, 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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Cooling System Care

We’ve already discussed the importance of proper cooling system maintenance. (See Checking for Electrolysis in your cooling system and Water Pump Analysis) The bottom line is this; if you don’t change your coolant at recommended intervals, you can count forking over big bucks due to premature radiator, heater core, and water pump failure. But what if you’re one of the “converted?” You believe in the benefits of coolant service. Then the question is, are you doing it properly?

Prestone has issued a list of coolant service tips for all do-it-yourselfers and some of them may surprise you.

Tip #1 Add a radiator flush product to your flushing routine. Sure it’s good to flush the system with fresh water. But water alone won’t get rid of oily residue in the system. If you’ve put in a new thermostat or water pump, you can be sure the manufacturing process left an oily coating on the surface of the parts. Guess where that oil is now? Add Prestone’s Super Radiator Flush product to your system to get the most out of your cooling system service.

Tip #2 If you’re servicing an older high mileage vehicle with a neglected cooling system, use caution with chemical cleaners. You’re faced with a Catch-22 when you finally decide to service a neglected system. On one hand, chances are good that you’ve got rust and scale deposits built up throughout the system. Those deposits dramatically restrict coolant flow and reduce heat transfer, which may lead to possible overheating, breakdown or costly repair. Radiator cleaners remove those heavy rust and scale deposits. So, a chemical cleaner can actually increase radiator and heater core efficiency.

On the other hand, those deposits may actually be sealing up small holes in the system.

If the chemical cleaner removes them, you may have leaks. If you want better cooling but also want to hedge your bets against leaking, add a system sealer along with the new coolant.

Heard bad things about stop-leak products? Well, stop-leak is not the same as sealer. Prestone’s Super Radiator Sealer is a combination of natural and synthetic components to seal leaks up to 0.016" x 0.5". The solution includes Kevlar^® particles that can seal large leaks without interfering with the flow through the radiator and heater core tubes.

Tip #3 Pre-diluted coolant is much easier to use. Some vehicles require complicated filling and bleeding routines. If you add the coolant first and are unable to add enough water later, your concentration will be out of specification. Even though it costs a bit more, use pre-diluted coolant and you will never have to worry about the proper concentration of coolant to water.

Tip #4 Ok, so it’s no fun to take a bath in coolant and that’s why you’ve neglected servicing your cooling system. We don’t blame you. But that’s no reason why you can’t dump in a bottle or Prestone’s Anti-Rust or Cooling System Treatment. Those two products can replenish the rust and electrolysis inhibitors and water pump lubricants that have long since worn out in your existing coolant. For less than $10 you can partially rejuvenate your system and still feel good about how you’ve neglected things. If that makes sense to you, remind me never to hitch a ride in your vehicle.

©, 2007 Rick Muscoplat

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